Avoiding congestion closer to Mexico had a price. The secondary roads are two-lane, pass through frequent villages, with many speed bumps and an occasional signal to slow you down, so we didn’t average a very high speed. Between Ixmiquilpan and Huichapan in the state of Hidalgo, it was dark and rainy with almost no villages, but hilly and windy, and by the time we arrived in Huichapan, I had a rare headache. Mauricio had offered to drive when I hit a few speed bumps too fast, inferring that I didn’t know how to drive in Mexico, which only steeled my resolve to drive on. With the men in front, and Susie busy editing photos in the back seat on the laptop, the conversation dwindled and there was tension. Normally, we occupy this time with books on CD, and indeed, we were in the middle of a great story that we had started upon departing Cuernavaca, The Hainan Incident, by DM Coffman, an LDS spy novel set in China in 2001, right before 9-11. But it would be rude to Mauricio to turn on an English novel in the middle of the story, so we drove on silently, deep in thought. After a great meal of huaraches, I was only too happy to rest and let him drive, chiding him back when he hit a few topes too hard at the beginning. But the tension eased when Susie rode up front and I napped in the back, at least for me. Susie had to put up with our driving, so she may not have been very comforted.